Sunday, July 15, 2007

Jordanien Part II


Hier nun also der zweite Teil des Berichtes über unsere Fahrt nach Jordanien.
Nach unserem Trip durch das Wadi Rum kamen wir mittags in unserem Wunschhotel, Valentine Inn an. Dies stellte sich als Backpackerabsteige mit drei Sternen heraus(Klimaanlage, Abendessen, Wäscheservice!). Der Service dort war so und so, die Besitzerin, “Valentine”, begrüßte einen freundlich mit einem Kind auf dem Arm. Abends gab es für 4 JD ein großes Buffet mit über 40 verschiedenen Salaten, sehr empfehlenswert. Die Räume sind gut und angenehm kühl. Der angepriesene Fahrservice vom Hostel nach Petra stellte sich jedoch als Flop heraus. Der Fahrer fährt angeblich um 8 Uhr. Wir waren zwei nach Acht dort, da meinte der Fahrer zu uns, dass er schon gefahren sei und wir standen vor der Entscheidung Taxi oder Laufen. Das Hostel liegt wie alle Hostels in der Region ungefähr 2 Km oberhalb der Tempelstadt Petra. Man kann also gut zu fuß gehen.
In Backpackerkreisen gibt es zum Thema Petra immer eine Frage “Wie kann ich den Eintrittspreis sparen?”. Petra ist wie alle Touristenplätze relativ teurer als andere Stätten in Jordanien. Der Eintrittspreis liegt bei 21 JD für einen Tag oder 25 JD für 2 Tage. (Jordanier zahlen 0,5 JD). Wir waren längere Zeit damit beschäftigt un seine Taktik einfallen zu lassen uns den Eintrittpreis sparen. Dies gelang uns mittags um 2 Uhr nicht. Die beste Taktik, so haben wir gehört, ist sich Nachts um 3 Uhr an den Wachen vorbei zu schleichen. Da Petra nicht geschlossen wird, weil auf dem Gelände ein Beduinen -Dorf ist.
Also haben wir dann doch den vollen Preis bezahlt (Studentenrabatt, ja klar aber nicht hier!) und uns ein zwei Tages Ticket gekauft.
Petra, griechisch: Stein. Ca. 3000 Jahre alte Stadt die von den Nabatäerngegründet wurde. Sie befindet sich auf einer wichtigen Kreuzung der Handelsstraßen von Ägypten nach Syrien und Babylon und wurde deshalb zu einer der einflussreichsten Städte der Region. Petra wurde später von den Römern in ihr Reich aufgenommen und war zu einem Zeitpunkt größer als Rom selbst. Das besondere ist, dass die Stadt nicht aus Stein gebaut wurde, sondern, dass die wichtigen Gebäude, wie Tempel, Wohnstätten und Theater in den Fels hineingeschlagen wurde. Die ganze Stadt wurde von einem sehr ausgetüftelten Wassersystem versorgt. Die Stadt verlor ihren Einfluss als der Seeweg von Ägypten nach Italien erschlossen wurde. Nur Beduine lebten hier, bis Burkhardt, ein Schweizer, der sich als reicher Muslim aus Indien verkleidete sich mit einem Trick nach Petra hineinschlich und dort Zeichnungen machte.
Petra wurde vor einer Woche zu einem der neuen Sieben Weltwunder gewählt. Es ist zweifelsohne der Touristisch wichtigste Ort in Jordanien und sollte auf keiner Reise durch das Land fehlen.
Unsere Eindrücke zu beschreiben fällt nicht leicht. Nach einem langen gewunden Weg durch die Hitze in dem Trockenen Flussbecken eröffnet sich einem der Ausblick auf ein 40 Meter Hohes Gebäude aus dem Fels gehauen. Die Beduine nennen es die Schatzkammer, weil sie glaubten der Ägyptische Pharao hätte dort seine Schätze vergraben. Aus diesem Grund haben sie mehrfach versucht Löcher in den Stein zu schlagen. Jedes Mal erfolglos. Die Kombination aus dem von Natur geschaffenen und dem von Menschen gehauenem verschlägt einem den Atem.

Die Hitze ist allerdings teilweise unerträglich. Dazu kommt noch, dass man an jeder Ecke von Beduinen zum Kauf von Orginalen Silbermünzen oder Beduinenschmuck motiviert wird. Dazwischen stehen die Kamel-, Pferde- und Eselreiter die einem ihr „Taxi“ mit Airconditioning für wenig Geld anbieten wollen, die Touristenströme nehmen dieses Angebot dankend an. Am ersten Tag entschieden wir uns für die bekannteste Route durch Petra. Das gesamte Gebiet ist so groß, dass man dort 8 Tage sein muss um es zu Fuß zu erschließen. Bei dieser Route kommt man an den größten Gebäuden vorbei.
Jedoch waren wir auch ziemlich genervt von der Menge an Menschen, die in einem Krassen Gegensatz zu der Einsamkeit der Wüste darstellen. Deshalb entschieden wir uns am nächsten Tag etwas abseits des üblichen Weges zu gehen („Off the beaten pass“ im Fachjargon). Diese Entscheidung stellte sich sehr schnell als die richtige da. Durch diese Wanderung abseits wird einem die Dimension der Stadt erst richtig bewusst. Hunderte von Höhlen und Häuser sind noch nicht einmal vom Sand befreit.
Die Beduinen die man dort trifft versuchen einem nichts zu verkaufen, sondern gehen ihrer normalen Arbeit nach wie Schafe hirten oder im Schatten Tee trinken.
Mehr Worte sind überflüssig, schaut euch die Fotos an.

Am Abend gab es als kleine Krönung noch ein Gimick im Hostel. Dort wird jeden Abend der gleiche Film gezeigt „Indianer Jonas und der letzte Kreuzzug.“ Weil in der letzten Minute Petra kurz gezeigt wird. Der Witz daran ist, dass es jeden Abend eine Abstimmung gibt, welchen Film man gucken soll und jeden Abend trotzdem der gleiche Film geschaut wird. Die Mitarbeiter sind entsprechend genervt und können bei den Liedern mitsummen.

Von Petra ging es nach einer Nacht und Tausenden von Fallafeln weiter nach Amman, darüber könnt ihr später mehr lesen.

Labels: ,

236 Comments:

Blogger sabbe said...

Oh, ich bin neidisch, wollte schon immer mal nach Petra....

Geniess deine Zeit!

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Blogger Miriam Woelke said...

B"H

Wieviel betraegt der Eintritt in Shekel ? Ich habe von Vielen gehoert, dass es 100 Shekel sein sollen.

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Blogger transponder said...

shalom miriam,
genau in shekel sind es ungefaehr 100 shekel, ist halt nicht ganz billig aber es lohnt sich!

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